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| Civilians | Buzz, The reading when I checked yesterday was somewhere around 24 .(?) to 25.(?) I do not remember exactly what the voltage was when the truck was first started. After a few minutes the voltage went down steadily. This was with all of the lights turned on, fuel pump running and heater fan running. However, it should not have had any problem keeping the charge going as this would have been normal operation on the highway at night with the exception of the flashers which were also on. Thanks, Bill K. [color=blue] > Bill, > To check your alternator output, read the voltage across the batteries > with the engine running. The voltage should be at least 28V, more like > 28.4 to 28.6. Each so called, 12V battery should read about half of the > total charge voltage, or 14V plus. I.E. the voltage on my car battery > with the engine running is 14.2V. > I do work in the general aviation business and they have pretty much > changed over to 14V or 28V, but the automotive market is still stuck at > 12V and 24V. > Educational opportunity follows..... When you read the voltage of a > disconnected battery you are reading a no load or, "surface charge". > To get an accurate reading battery voltage should be read under load, > this can be done at a shop that is equipped with the proper test > equipment, and a KNOWLEDGEABLE, hard to find these days, technician. > BTW, you're not a moron, you are ignorant. > > "Ignorance can be educated, stupid is forever" > > Buzz[/color] ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list=== To unsubscribe, send e-mail to: <mil-veh-off@mil-veh.org> To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to <mil-veh-digest@mil-veh.org> To reach a human, contact <ack@mil-veh.org> |
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