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| Civilians | Hi Dennis, Sorry about the poor response to your fording questions. As you may or may not know, I have written a number of articles for Military Vehicles Magazine and some cover the subject on fording. See "Fording the Deuce" (October 2002), for example. The process of preparing the 2-1/2 ton truck for fording has triggered many changes to my vehicle. Here are some things to be aware of: The axles have breather valves, which are designed to let air out when the internal pressure exceeds about 1/2 psi or so. They must be checked so that they don't let water in. You will find the same valves on the transfer case and transmission also. When fording waters above the axle housings, plug the drain on the bell housing, the plug is stored next to it in a threaded "boss". Once the bellhousing has been plugged, pull the "fording handle" on the dash to pressurize the bellhousing and transmission. This handle, along with a low pressure regulator, some plumbing and a check valve between the air storage tanks are part of the Fording kit and may have been factory installed (it was on my truck). The rubber boot around the shift lever must be intact for the pressure to build up in the bell housing and transmission. The pressure is continously vented through the breather valve on the transmission. When the water reches a level above the axle housings, there is another concern, the "thru axle" seals. They were no good on my truck's front axle and had to be replaced. If they leak, then the housing gets filled with water. I have added plumbing so that I can pressurize all axles, transfer case, bellhousing and transmission. When the water reaches the batteries, you have to be looking at what kind of batteries you have. The military ones have breather valves, which will not let water in to a depth of about 4 feet (above the batteries), the commercial ones (not sealed) have baffles, which will let water in. Coat battery and starter terminals with grease. When the water reaches the crankcase breather tube, then you must add a hose to let it breathe above the water level of course (part of fording kit). I installed a Crankcase breather filter to permanently vent the crankcase above 5 feet (it vents through the air intake support stand and is actually recirculated. The air intake mushroom can be mounted on an elbow to vent it more safely and well above 4 feet. The compressor intake must be routed to the nipple on the air intake filter canister. The steering knuckle boots must be intact along with all the outer wheel bearing seals. This will have to do for now, if you have any particular questions, I'll be here. About the originality of the crane on the deuce. Yes, it was used in this configuration, but I don't have any manuals showing it. The crane is a 1972 HIAB serial number 17, from a Navy vehicle. It has a tag stating that it is to be mounted on type M35A2C trucks only. My truck bed is home made. Have a great day, Bjorn [color=blue] >From: "Dennis Racz" <docdrrd@hotmail.com> >To: [email]super_deuce@hotmail.com[/email] >Subject: crane on 2 1/2 ton? >Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 12:30:42 +0000 >[/color] ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list=== To unsubscribe, send e-mail to: <mil-veh-off@mil-veh.org> To switch to the DIGEST mode, send e-mail to <mil-veh-digest@mil-veh.org> To reach a human, contact <ack@mil-veh.org> |
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