UPDATE!!! replacing steel brake Lines???????

to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my
pedal is still very soft.???

Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.

I tried
Is there air still in the system?

also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
........but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did
air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips

Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
lines again.


thanks Brian









If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you
the correct tool for the job at no charge.

I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago.
It was a piece of cake.

"Bob Urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
news:422527b1$1_1@127.0.0.1...
>
>
> « Paul » wrote:
>
>> bmaty wrote:
>>
>>> ..............I just bought a car to run to work and back in.
>>>
>>>its in great shape only 48,000 miles and the body is real
>>>good.............but one of the Steel brake lines is busted. and the
>>>others
>>>don't look so good.
>>>
>>>I'd like to do it my self to save the cash. but I'd like to know if im
>>>getting in over my head. Any body got any experiance working with these.
>>>
>>>I called the local part stores and they all have stock striaght lines
>>>that
>>>I'd have to bend and flare. and the rest of the brake system I think i
>>>can
>>>easliy do by myself.
>>>
>>>Thanks.
>>>
>>>Brian
>>
>>
>> You can probably buy almost correct lengths and not have to cut & flare.
>> Double flaring is not easy and not fun (not for me anyways).
>> Find our if your oem vehicle lines are either english or metric.
>> If you do end up flaring, do lots of practice flares first.
>
> When i had to redo my old mazda, i went through all the scenarios you are.
> What i decided to do in the end was buy stock length lines with the
> fittings already on and bend them.
>
> You carefully take off the old lines. YOu may have to cut them in a few
> spots. It depends. Then you use the contours of the old lines to pre bend
> as much as possible the new lines off the car. Then you carefully put the
> new lines on. Start at one end, and work your way to the other.
> Since you may have bought lines longer than the OEM, you might have to put
> a few loops or bends in them to reduce there length.
>
> I was warned that to make a good double flair is an art, and the flair
> tool is not cheap either. So that's why i went the pre built route. The
> bender was not that much. Good luck. WHen you take one of the old lines
> off, take it down to the auto parts store to match up the thread and
> flair.
>
> Bob

sorry above post was jumbled.read below






Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.

I tried to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my
pedal is still very soft.???


Is there air still in the system?

also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
........but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did
air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips

Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
lines again.


thanks Brian











Ok .great what you said is exactly what I just did last night......and the
only thing I have to do now is check for leaks and then bleed the entire
system..........Im going to let gravity refill all the lines then hopefully
i'll have a hard petal.........with no more leaks.

I 'll let you guys know tonight..............Thanks a million


Brian











If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you
the correct tool for the job at no charge.

I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago.
It was a piece of cake.

"Bob Urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
news:422527b1$1_1@127.0.0.1...
>
>
> « Paul » wrote:
>
>> bmaty wrote:
>>
>>> ..............I just bought a car to run to work and back in.
>>>
>>>its in great shape only 48,000 miles and the body is real
>>>good.............but one of the Steel brake lines is busted. and the
>>>others
>>>don't look so good.
>>>
>>>I'd like to do it my self to save the cash. but I'd like to know if im
>>>getting in over my head. Any body got any experiance working with these.
>>>
>>>I called the local part stores and they all have stock striaght lines
>>>that
>>>I'd have to bend and flare. and the rest of the brake system I think i
>>>can
>>>easliy do by myself.
>>>
>>>Thanks.
>>>
>>>Brian
>>
>>
>> You can probably buy almost correct lengths and not have to cut & flare.
>> Double flaring is not easy and not fun (not for me anyways).
>> Find our if your oem vehicle lines are either english or metric.
>> If you do end up flaring, do lots of practice flares first.
>
> When i had to redo my old mazda, i went through all the scenarios you are.
> What i decided to do in the end was buy stock length lines with the
> fittings already on and bend them.
>
> You carefully take off the old lines. YOu may have to cut them in a few
> spots. It depends. Then you use the contours of the old lines to pre bend
> as much as possible the new lines off the car. Then you carefully put the
> new lines on. Start at one end, and work your way to the other.
> Since you may have bought lines longer than the OEM, you might have to put
> a few loops or bends in them to reduce there length.
>
> I was warned that to make a good double flair is an art, and the flair
> tool is not cheap either. So that's why i went the pre built route. The
> bender was not that much. Good luck. WHen you take one of the old lines
> off, take it down to the auto parts store to match up the thread and
> flair.
>
> Bob

"bmaty" <bmaty@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:MI2dnZG176tGhbTfRVn-jw@adelphia.com...
> to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
> back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but
> my pedal is still very soft.???
>
> Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
> hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
>
> I tried
> Is there air still in the system?
>
> also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
> .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the
> rear.........did air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the
> bleeders open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any
> tips
>
> Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
> lines again.
>
>
> thanks Brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you
> the correct tool for the job at no charge.
>
> I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago.
> It was a piece of cake.
>
> "Bob Urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
> news:422527b1$1_1@127.0.0.1...
>>
>>
>> « Paul » wrote:
>>
>>> bmaty wrote:
>>>
>>>> ..............I just bought a car to run to work and back in.
>>>>
>>>>its in great shape only 48,000 miles and the body is real
>>>>good.............but one of the Steel brake lines is busted. and the
>>>>others
>>>>don't look so good.
>>>>
>>>>I'd like to do it my self to save the cash. but I'd like to know if im
>>>>getting in over my head. Any body got any experiance working with these.
>>>>
>>>>I called the local part stores and they all have stock striaght lines
>>>>that
>>>>I'd have to bend and flare. and the rest of the brake system I think i
>>>>can
>>>>easliy do by myself.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>Brian
>>>
>>>
>>> You can probably buy almost correct lengths and not have to cut & flare.
>>> Double flaring is not easy and not fun (not for me anyways).
>>> Find our if your oem vehicle lines are either english or metric.
>>> If you do end up flaring, do lots of practice flares first.
>>
>> When i had to redo my old mazda, i went through all the scenarios you
>> are.
>> What i decided to do in the end was buy stock length lines with the
>> fittings already on and bend them.
>>
>> You carefully take off the old lines. YOu may have to cut them in a few
>> spots. It depends. Then you use the contours of the old lines to pre bend
>> as much as possible the new lines off the car. Then you carefully put the
>> new lines on. Start at one end, and work your way to the other.
>> Since you may have bought lines longer than the OEM, you might have to
>> put
>> a few loops or bends in them to reduce there length.
>>
>> I was warned that to make a good double flair is an art, and the flair
>> tool is not cheap either. So that's why i went the pre built route. The
>> bender was not that much. Good luck. WHen you take one of the old lines
>> off, take it down to the auto parts store to match up the thread and
>> flair.
>>
>> Bob
>
>

Sit in car push brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds and repeat until you
get a hard pedal. When you press and hold the pedal it give the air bubble
time to work its way out of the system. We used to do this on fork lift
trucks because or the way the brake cylinders were installed . some times it
would take an hour to get rid of air and this was the only way.Good Luck
"bmaty" <bmaty@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:MI2dnZG176tGhbTfRVn-jw@adelphia.com...
> to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
> back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but
my
> pedal is still very soft.???
>
> Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
> hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
>
> I tried
> Is there air still in the system?
>
> also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
> .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the
rear.........did
> air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
> open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
>
> Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
> lines again.
>
>
> thanks Brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you
> the correct tool for the job at no charge.
>
> I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago.
> It was a piece of cake.
>
> "Bob Urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
> news:422527b1$1_1@127.0.0.1...
> >
> >
> > « Paul » wrote:
> >
> >> bmaty wrote:
> >>
> >>> ..............I just bought a car to run to work and back in.
> >>>
> >>>its in great shape only 48,000 miles and the body is real
> >>>good.............but one of the Steel brake lines is busted. and the
> >>>others
> >>>don't look so good.
> >>>
> >>>I'd like to do it my self to save the cash. but I'd like to know if im
> >>>getting in over my head. Any body got any experiance working with
these.
> >>>
> >>>I called the local part stores and they all have stock striaght lines
> >>>that
> >>>I'd have to bend and flare. and the rest of the brake system I think i
> >>>can
> >>>easliy do by myself.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks.
> >>>
> >>>Brian
> >>
> >>
> >> You can probably buy almost correct lengths and not have to cut &
flare.
> >> Double flaring is not easy and not fun (not for me anyways).
> >> Find our if your oem vehicle lines are either english or metric.
> >> If you do end up flaring, do lots of practice flares first.
> >
> > When i had to redo my old mazda, i went through all the scenarios you
are.
> > What i decided to do in the end was buy stock length lines with the
> > fittings already on and bend them.
> >
> > You carefully take off the old lines. YOu may have to cut them in a few
> > spots. It depends. Then you use the contours of the old lines to pre
bend
> > as much as possible the new lines off the car. Then you carefully put
the
> > new lines on. Start at one end, and work your way to the other.
> > Since you may have bought lines longer than the OEM, you might have to
put
> > a few loops or bends in them to reduce there length.
> >
> > I was warned that to make a good double flair is an art, and the flair
> > tool is not cheap either. So that's why i went the pre built route. The
> > bender was not that much. Good luck. WHen you take one of the old lines
> > off, take it down to the auto parts store to match up the thread and
> > flair.
> >
> > Bob
>
>

OK guys your all great.
I replaced the broken lines..........had to put a new caliper on the front
cause i could not get the bleeder screw off........plus after trying to tap
it out there was metal everywhere.Bleeding the system i just let gravity
take its toll on the sytem then I pumped the hell out of the system over and
over again.

So any way the Brakes are now great. Thanks a bunch to everyone that
helped out.(total project cost $49 dollars versus several hundred previous
owner was going to get charged)


Now onto the Exhaust (needs entire system) and then the back shocks and this
92 cavailer (40k) will be perfect.
Im going to try and piece together a system from AUTOZONE....i fiqure that
will save me alot of cash. I've done shocks on a 92 dodge dakota so I think
i should be able to do these.

any tips would be very helpful.


--------------AGAIN THANKS ALOT
GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-------------------------------







"Dog" <Dog@dog.dog> wrote in message
news:47mWd.56344$kz6.1029020@news20.bellglobal.com ...
> Sit in car push brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds and repeat until you
> get a hard pedal. When you press and hold the pedal it give the air bubble
> time to work its way out of the system. We used to do this on fork lift
> trucks because or the way the brake cylinders were installed . some times
> it
> would take an hour to get rid of air and this was the only way.Good Luck
> "bmaty" <bmaty@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> news:MI2dnZG176tGhbTfRVn-jw@adelphia.com...
>> to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
>> back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but
> my
>> pedal is still very soft.???
>>
>> Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
>> hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
>>
>> I tried
>> Is there air still in the system?
>>
>> also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
>> .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the
> rear.........did
>> air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
>> open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
>>
>> Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
>> lines again.
>>
>>
>> thanks Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend
>> you
>> the correct tool for the job at no charge.
>>
>> I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months
>> ago.
>> It was a piece of cake.
>>
>> "Bob Urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
>> news:422527b1$1_1@127.0.0.1...
>> >
>> >
>> > « Paul » wrote:
>> >
>> >> bmaty wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> ..............I just bought a car to run to work and back in.
>> >>>
>> >>>its in great shape only 48,000 miles and the body is real
>> >>>good.............but one of the Steel brake lines is busted. and the
>> >>>others
>> >>>don't look so good.
>> >>>
>> >>>I'd like to do it my self to save the cash. but I'd like to know if im
>> >>>getting in over my head. Any body got any experiance working with
> these.
>> >>>
>> >>>I called the local part stores and they all have stock striaght lines
>> >>>that
>> >>>I'd have to bend and flare. and the rest of the brake system I think i
>> >>>can
>> >>>easliy do by myself.
>> >>>
>> >>>Thanks.
>> >>>
>> >>>Brian
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> You can probably buy almost correct lengths and not have to cut &
> flare.
>> >> Double flaring is not easy and not fun (not for me anyways).
>> >> Find our if your oem vehicle lines are either english or metric.
>> >> If you do end up flaring, do lots of practice flares first.
>> >
>> > When i had to redo my old mazda, i went through all the scenarios you
> are.
>> > What i decided to do in the end was buy stock length lines with the
>> > fittings already on and bend them.
>> >
>> > You carefully take off the old lines. YOu may have to cut them in a few
>> > spots. It depends. Then you use the contours of the old lines to pre
> bend
>> > as much as possible the new lines off the car. Then you carefully put
> the
>> > new lines on. Start at one end, and work your way to the other.
>> > Since you may have bought lines longer than the OEM, you might have to
> put
>> > a few loops or bends in them to reduce there length.
>> >
>> > I was warned that to make a good double flair is an art, and the flair
>> > tool is not cheap either. So that's why i went the pre built route. The
>> > bender was not that much. Good luck. WHen you take one of the old lines
>> > off, take it down to the auto parts store to match up the thread and
>> > flair.
>> >
>> > Bob
>>
>>
>
>

bmaty wrote:
>
> OK guys your all great.
> I replaced the broken lines..........had to put a new caliper on the front
> cause i could not get the bleeder screw off........plus after trying to tap
> it out there was metal everywhere.Bleeding the system i just let gravity
> take its toll on the sytem then I pumped the hell out of the system over and
> over again.
>
> So any way the Brakes are now great. Thanks a bunch to everyone that
> helped out.(total project cost $49 dollars versus several hundred previous
> owner was going to get charged)
>
> Now onto the Exhaust (needs entire system) and then the back shocks and this
> 92 cavailer (40k) will be perfect.
> Im going to try and piece together a system from AUTOZONE....i fiqure that
> will save me alot of cash. I've done shocks on a 92 dodge dakota so I think
> i should be able to do these.
>
> any tips would be very helpful.

Good that you got it working ok.
Rear shocks are fairly easy.
Wear goggles when doing the exhaust - rust chunks always fly directly
into eyes.

bmaty wrote:
> to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
> back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my
> pedal is still very soft.???
>
> Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
> hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
>
> I tried
> Is there air still in the system?
>
> also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
> .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did
> air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
> open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
>
> Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
> lines again.
>
>
> thanks Brian
>
>
Ok, unless i missed something, how did you end up replacing the steel
lines? Did you buy pre built or flair raw lines?

Bob

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
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Dog wrote:
> Sit in car push brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds and repeat until you
> get a hard pedal. When you press and hold the pedal it give the air bubble
> time to work its way out of the system. my
>
>>pedal is still very soft.???
>>
>>>> snip
>>also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
>>.......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the
>
> rear.........did
>
>>air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
>>open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
>>
>>Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
>>lines again.
>>
>>
> >>> Snip

If air entered the front, you can unbolt a caliper,
and squeeze the piston back into the bore, air will percolate out
through fluid, works best if pads are worn, as piston sticks out further.

Some cars have proportional valve that you push the button while
brake pedal is down, that rascal can make bleeding fun.

>