> I called the parts yard and he said they only check them off the vehicle
if
> I wanted to bring it over... but he suggested the Auto Zone guy didn't
have
> a good connection when he clipped to the side terminals (which I thought
> while he was doing the test) so I think I'm gonna give it a few days
before
> I go through removing it and dealing with being a car short on the roster
> for the duration of time where I can rush over there after work and such.


I suspect the Autozone data too.
Battery tests have to be done carefully and by a skilled person to be of any
use. Too many times, 'testers' will tell you that the battery is okay, just
needs a full recharge, when in fact the battery is toast.

Just because you measure 12.6 volts or so doesn't mean anything about the
ability of that battery to provide the current you need to crank an engine.

I had a rear engined car once that gave me all kinds of hell. The battery
would go down, the ECM would stop working, the alternator would frag
itself....rather periodically. Finally found that the dealership had put
the
brackets together incorrectly after a warranty recall procedure and the belt
would loosen gradually. As the belt began to slip, apparently the
alternator got confused and tried to keep up but couldn't. When the battery
got low enough, the thing just died. I couldnt see the problem with the
brackets with the engine in place, but finally -when the Iron Duke cracked
the block - I pulled the engine and things began to make sense.

An aftermarket ammeter, and even a voltmeter, can be helpful. At least you
will get a hint in real time what is happening.